Reform Dandyism: Quality in Polo Shirts

Quality is one of the tenets of Reform Dandyism. The general rule is to buy, at the very least, good quality items. Not exactly a new thought. The difference with mainstream thought is that you probably do not need the highest quality polo shirts, however that is defined. As LeDandy said before with turtleneck shirts, "sometimes good is good enough." LeDandy's personal favorite in a basic polo shirt is the Lands' End mesh knit which sells for about $20. Wonderful shirts in neutral colors. There are also other brands with shirts in roughly the same price range which are equally as good.

What does more money buy in terms of quality? Not much really. More expensive shirts may have a special treatment (e.g.,double mercerized*) and / or a higher grade of cotton (e.g., Sea Island). In terms of actual wear, an inexpensive Lands' End mesh shirt will hold up equally well, if not better, than the mercerized cotton shirts. The mercerized shirts are very thin and easily susceptible to nasty tears if there is a puncture or cut in the fabric.

LeDandy has seen some outrageous prices for men's polo shirts. The most absurd is one seller for Zimmerli polo shirts made in Switzerland who sells these for $295 each! The shirts are advertised as Sea Island cotton which is quite expensive and is a damn smooth fabric. But is it a quality worth 15x as much as a standard polo shirt in terms of quality? I don't think so. Avon Celli, a well-known Italian manufacturer, has retail prices of over $300 for their polo shirts. However, their shirts are frequently discounted online to about $150 which is still a substantial sum.

Forget about the Izod and Ralph Lifshitz shirts in terms of quality. Their fabric is not much different, if at all, from Lands' End and similar brands. Also, both designer brands are made outside the US in South America or Asia and have roughly the equivalent quality in terms of construction.


If you have been reading this column for some time, you will remember that LeDandy is fond of the Jeff Rose polo shirts made in Italy which have a retail price over $100.** Isn't this a contradiction of the point raised in today's column? No. Today's focus is on quality only. LeDandy likes the Rose shirts because of their bold colors and intricate designs as pictured above. Do not confuse design or color with quality.
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*to give (as cotton yarn) luster, strength, and receptiveness to dyes by treatment under tension with caustic soda (source: Webster's Online Dictionary)
**LeDandy has had great luck on eBay with these shirts, mostly in pre-owned (i.e., used) condition.

Book Review: Color for Men

When I graduated college in 1986, I had a very rough time finding a job in Arizona. I took a low paying sales clerk job at Walden Books at Camelview Plaza in Scottsdale. It was a lousy job but I remember picking up this book for a few dollars on clearance. Recently a friend of mine mentioned this book and I thought it would be a good time to write a review. I no longer have my copy but I do remember it clearly as I learned a lot from it.

This is a great beginner's level book and I say that kindly. The author recommends appropriate colors for men based on their skin tone, which she divides into four "seasons." This is a science and it is not subjective. LeDandy isn't fond of the scientific approach in men's fashion but this color coding scheme makes sense and it does work. You probably already know which colors look good on you, but her system explains why.

The book goes well beyond color suggestions and she recommends different styles of clothing based upon one's build. I remember how she divided suit styles into three categories: European, Updated American and Ivy League. For each category she discussed the appropriate physique for that style. If you have no experience with men's fashion, it is an excellent primer as it covers many topics. She even tells you what you need for a basic wardrobe based upon your profession and income.

Will this book turn you into a dandy? No, but I can't think of a better building block for someone who wants to embark on the road of men's fashion with no experience. Even though the book was published twenty years ago, the lessons and advice are still relevant.

Advice to a Teenage Girl With Weight Concerns

A week ago I received an email from a family friend who is raising a teenage girl. I haven't seen them in a long time but I always liked the family. Since I wrote a complimentary piece on "muffin tops" a while back, my friend asked for LeDandy's advice as her daughter is slightly overweight. LeDandy is sensitive to teen issues as he remembers that time as being very challenging.

I thought that I'd pass along the tips contained in my email to my friend to share with her daughter. The following is taken from that email:

1. Famous Women w/ full figures - talk about great role models; I am 5'5" and short by any standard. One day when I was a youngster I saw a list of famous people under 5'6". There are a lot of them. From that day forward, I never felt bad about my height (or lack thereof!). Maybe the same principle will apply w/ your daughter;
2. Average women w/ full figures who have/ husbands or boyfriends - When at a mall, grocery store or anywhere in public, point out the women w/ full figures or overweight who have a partner. I hear this piece of advice on the radio talk shows and it makes sense. She can see that many other women, not perfect by a fashion model's standards, are happy and have a partner;
3. Accentuate the positive - I'm sure she has many good physical qualities. Make sure she knows it;
4. Help her develop her own style - It is easy to say that young women shouldn't look at the thin models in fashion magazines as a standard. What's harder to do is to develop your own style. That's what my blog is all about: helping men develop their unique and individual style. No reason this shouldn't apply to women also. She can experiment w/ different styles of clothing until she finds what she wants.
5. Self-doubt as a teen is normal - She isn't alone and I'm sure she has friends who have much deeper problems.

Sometimes this blog goes beyond its mission statement. But that is what keeps it interesting.

The best of luck to my friend and her young daughter.

Wristwatches: A Question of Size

In my last post I gave advice to those who want to start on the path of Reform Dandysim. As Kurt from California pointed out to me, how does one do something when there are no guidelines or rules? LeDandy advises readers to follow in his path: start with Conservative Dandyism and, at your own pace, begin to question the elements according to your own taste.

Today we will do a practical exercise with wristwatches. If you are a fan of wristwatches, I'm sure you are aware of the long trend favoring large watch faces. Watch manufacturers, like everyone else, respond to public demand. And the demand is definitely towards the larger watch. The Panerai watch below measures 44mm, exluding the lugs, and it is quite a whopper on a normal wrist. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak model, another popular choice, is of the same dimension. Some watch makers go even larger. Bell & Ross makes a watch measuring 46mm and a photo of it is shown below the Panerai.


I did a brief survey of modern dress watches and face sizes vary from about 38mm to 44mm. It is not just the sport watches which are large.

To give you a yardstick for comparison, the Rolex GMT Master has a 40mm face and I consider it to be a tad too big on my wrist. I would have preferred the 36mm face of the Explorer I but I couldn't pass up a great deal.

Vintage wristwatches are much smaller than today's behemoths. Round watch faces usually measured about 28mm to 32mm. LeDandy is a fan of old Hamilton watches and this size was typical of their production from the 1930's through 1950's. Below is the famous picture of FDR with his cigarette holder. You also should notice his watch in the photo.



Get over the "size" issue. Look at the watch from the perspective of how it looks on you personally. In my opinion, an oversize watch makes the wrist look small. I prefer the smaller, vintage sizes as it appears more proportionate to the average man. If you have an arm the size of a telephone pole, then a 46mm watch face may be more appropriate.

So what is the point of today's post? Is it that smaller watches are better? No! I want you to question the prevailing paradigm. Even though large watches are dominant in today's market, you should consider alternatives. You may decide in the end that you want a large watch even though you have an average sized wrist. This is fine. LeDandy just wants you to go through the process of questioning the accepted standards. The conclusion is up to you. This is the essence of Reform Dandyism.

Is Dandyism an Art or a Science?

The other day I received an email from Kurt in California about my previous post on dispensing with the rules of style in favor of seeking a personal equilibrium. Kurt disagreed with LeDandy and he raised some valid points in his email.

The following is from Kurt's email:

"If I go to a dance or martial arts studio and ask to be instructed in the ways of the art, I want to learn *the right way to do it*. I don’t want to be told “Forget rules and just do whatever you find comfortable.” [....] But fundamentally, there’s no such thing as the art of tap dance or the art of kung-fu unless there’s a right way to do it and a wrong way."

So who is right? LeDandy advocating the elimination of rules or Kurt calling for observance of rules?

Both are right! It all depends on which denomination of dandyism one follows. If one believes in Orthodox or Conservative Dandyism, then Kurt's position is correct. Rules are necessary as these sects of dandyism are more like a science than art. There are prescribed rules of dress one must follow, especially with Orthodox Dandyism. Reform Dandyism, on the other hand, is almost entirely art. Think of modern art and you can see how rules don't apply. It is purely creative at best.

Below is a graphic representation of denominational dandyism on an art / science continuum:

This graph shows another important aspect of denominational dandyism: it is a continuum and not three discrete groups. LeDandy falls about halfway between Reform and Conservative Dandyism on the graph, even though he puts himself in the Reform camp.

So what does LeDandy recommend if you want to get active in Reform Dandyism but want some guidelines? Easy. Start off with Conservative Dandyism where rules exist and, at your own pace, begin to question the elements. That is how LeDandy got started in the first place with his low vamp loafers and pince-nez eyewear.

Forget the Rules, Seek Equilibrium

There has always been a lot of talk in the men's fashion world about rules. What are the rules for business wear? Can I ever break the rules? What if I fall short of maintaining the rules? Yes, there has been a lot of material written about rules for men's fashion.

If you are interested in dressing for success in the business world, this blog doesn't apply to you. Rules are very important if you are dressing for success.

LeDandy doesn't believe in rules, as commonly perceived, for men's style. In its place, LeDandy advocates that the reader seek a state of equilibrium with his appearance. It is a natural law that life thrives when it is in a state of balance. This principle applies to men's fashion as well. Your appearance should reflect your inner self.

Rules, on the other hand, are meant for preserving social order. Its purpose is not meant to suit the needs of the individual.

In the framework of Reform Dandyism, the principle of equilibrium in style falls within the categories of self-empowerment and responsibility. While you have the power to decide what you want to wear, you are also responsible for any consequences brought about by your wardrobe.

Tropis Swimwear: A Sad Casualty of the Bad Economy

Yesterday I checked my email and heard some bad news. Tropis Swimwear will be going out of business soon according to its owner. Even though I haven't bought any of their products, I've been an admirer of this line's minimalist style. And when I say minimalist, I'm not kidding! This isn't the type of swimwear which you'll want to wear at a family function with the kids. But if you are at an adults only party, I can see where it would be a lot of fun if you are not physically shy. This swimwear isn't a novelty item. Most of the suits are made of an 80% nylon / 20% spandex material which is machine washable and they are hand sewn. The designs are daring and provocative. It is a blast to peruse the website for the gay or bi man.

Tropis is a one-man operation. Steven, the owner, provides some information about himself on the Tropis website. It started as a hobby for him and he hoped to turn it into a full-time business as he already has a day job. Unfortunately the economy took a nosedive as of late and male exotic swimwear is not a necessary item. Especially in winter. Hence the announcement of Tropis's closing and big close-out sales.

I like Steven's sense of humor. On the "About Us" page, he states: "So far 'Us' is actually 'me'. Tropis Swimwear LLC is owned and operated by one person." I love it!

This business started out as a hobby for Steven. He hoped to turn it into a full-time venture. This must be the dream of many American men: take a hobby and slowly turn it into a profitable, full-time operation. I hope one day he can restart his dream.