LeDandy's New Suede Shoes

Before I get into today's column, here is a Halloween gift that Jon Dean and I received from our friends JoAnne and Allen. It is a Britney Spears pumpkin creation, complete with coffee cup and cigarette pack. There is an inscription on the back of the cup but it is not fit for publication. "Ding dang y'all" is an unflattering phrase used in columns about Britney on TMZ.com. This pumpking really captures the spirit of Britney.

Back to today's subject.

Last week I finally received my leather and suede Braganos after a nearly two week wait. The Post Office sent the package parcel post when it should have gone priority mail. Given what has happened to me recently, I believed the Shoe Gods were exacting their vengeance on me. LeDandy is a tough customer though.

I've never owned suede shoes. Prior to last week, I didn't know a damn thing about how to take care of this particular hide. Maintenance is not a simple process as with leather shoes. You can't use polish and you have to use a special suede eraser to clean dirt and spots. For a nasty stain, you have to use a special solvent and need a bit of luck. LeDandy is a novice when it comes to suede. Seek professional help in this area.

Then of course there is the big enemy of suede: water. It is vital to use a non-sillicone, waterproof protection spray on suede shoes to prevent damage. By applying this spray every few months, you don't have to worry about getting your suede shoes wet or spilling a drink on them. The polishes and sprays from an Italian company named URAD came highly recommended. I ordered their waterproof spray and some polish. I'll let you know if these items live up to their billing.

Suede is a different look. Maybe the high maintenance is what attracts many people to it.

Funky Red Shoes

I ran across these shoes on eBay yesterday while doing some mindless browsing. I've never seen shoes like this pair. They are suede with leather trim made by Zanin in a funky Italian style. The bright red color and low vamp make this pair quite attractive in an eccentric way.

Jon Dean initially thought these were women's shoes. However, they are stamped as an "8" and have men's measurements which equal an eight.

I did a google search for Zanin and came up with very little. I did see a few other pairs of men's Zanin shoes on some other auction sites. My guess is that Zanin exists no longer.

LeDandy is going to pass on these shoes. He is running out of space for his collection! Also, he'd like to preserve the domestic peace in his house. If you are interested, they are still on eBay at a starting price of $50. They were listed previously at $50 and no one bid on them.

LeDandy guarantees that you will be noticed in these shoes.

Bias Against Blue Jeans

Generally speaking, I'm not a fan of blue jeans. I think that they look cheap and are not appropriate as office wear or important social gatherings. Here in the San Francisco Bay Area, jeans have become the "new uniform" in the workplace. I'm one of the few people at work who rarely wears jeans. It is ironic how blue jeans once represented the anti-establishment type. Now it is has become a key element in the wardrobe of the establishment, at least here in California.

Ever hear of the California Tuxedo? It is blue jeans paired with a navy blazer. Popular in Marin County and Silicon Valley.

Two weeks ago I went to an open house hosted by one of the large law firms in SF. There must have been several hundred people at this event and most people were nicely dressed in suits and dresses. LeDandy had on some nice corduroy pants and a polo sweater but didn't feel out of place. I didn't see anyone in blue jeans until the end of the evening when I saw a middle-aged man in a California Tuxedo. I must say that the absence of blue jeans improved the overall look of the event. Contrary to what you may expect, it was a very friendly crowd and LeDandy had a great time.

The most ridiculous look is when senior citizens wear blue jeans in a pathetic attempt to appear youthful. I saw this phenomenon last Thursday when our work group went out for lunch at a nice place in the Presidio.

LeDandy saves blue jeans for the weekend, when he does his chores and hangs out around the house.

Book Review: The Rise and Fall of the House of Barneys

A book review on a fashion blog? Yes, when the topic is one of the large retail stores in the US. Several weeks ago I wrote a few posts about Barneys since they opened up a store here in San Francisco. I don't have many kind words for the current store. This book, however, covers a different period. "The Rise and Fall of the House of Barneys," by Joshua Levine. It traces the history of the store from its founding in 1923 to the bankruptcy of 1996 when the Pressman family lost control of the operation. It is a sad but fascinating story. You'd never want to have a family business after reading this book! At least not with the grandsons of Barney Pressman.

Barneys (it lost the apostrophe in 1982) had very humble roots in its early days. Barney Pressman sold men's suits at discount prices. It was such a small, insignificant store that clothing manufacturers would not sell directly to him. He had to buy his merchandise in a creative manner. You have to give the man credit. He offered quality merchandise at good prices. Most importantly, he built relationships with customers and thereby maintained their loyalty. There are many good anecdotes in the book of old school business methods.

Next, the second generation management arrived. Barney's son Fred expanded the store in a different, yet still profitable direction. Whereas Barney dealt with conventional menswear, Fred upscaled the store's image with refined European clothing. He had an incredible eye for discovering talented designers and signed them to exclusive contracts. Fred's biggest acquisition was Giorgio Armani in 1982. The store at this time was still strictly a men's store and had a huge profit margin, far surpassing industry standards.

The third generation ruined the store in about a decade. I can't even begin to describe the incompetence, greed and hubris which flowed from Gene and Bob Pressman, the two sons of Fred. You have to read it for yourself. It is both tragic and gripping. They did everything to alienate its customer base and Japanese investors. If there was a chance you would have offspring like them, you'd pray for an abortion given the stories presented in the book.

This book is not easy to find at your local bookstore. You can check your library. I bought my used copy on Amazon for $0.89! But I had to pay $4 for shipping. Still a good deal. LeDandy recommends this book as not only a great family drama, but as a story of what has gone wrong with the retail clothing industry.

LeDandy the New Daddy!!

A deviation from the usual topics just for today.

It wasn't easy but Jon Dean and I became the proud parents of a ten month old baby girl pug. Her name is Tater, short for Tater Tot, because she looks like one of those fried potato treats. On Sunday we met the owner and foster mom (Rosemary and Terry, respectively) in Pleasanton along with the seven or eight pugs they had at a dog show. Wonderful people and true pug lovers. All went smoothly and Tater (aka Tango) came home with us late in the afternoon.

As you know, LeDandy and Jon Dean have two other dogs and a bunch of cats. Everyone is getting along as expected and soon everyone will settle down. Here are some more pics of our new kid.

To Tassel or Not to Tassel

Lets start with the scholarly approach this time. Webster's Dictionary defines tassel as a "dangling ornament made by laying parallel a bunch of cords or threads of even length and fastening them at one end." This definition reinforces the belief that tassels serve no useful purpose. Just like the spoiler on a car, it is merely for decoration. No wonder many men have a strong dislike for tassels on their shoes. Jon Dean, my better half, is one such man. He will not buy tasseled shoes at all.

As you would expect, LeDandy takes the minority position once again. He loves tassels! Lately, I've grown even more fond of these functionally useless attachments on my shoes. Will I buy tasseled shoes in the future to the exclusion of a plain vamped shoe? No. But I do have a preference for these dangling ornaments.

I've been in a shoe buyer's funk ever since losing that eBay auction for the old Bragano tuxedo slippers mentioned in my Oct. 7th post. Ever hear of the old baseball player Shoeless Joe Jackson of the Chicago White Sox? Well, I've been calling myself Shoeless LeDandy in self pity. Not an attractive sight. I don't know how Jon Dean puts up with me. He's a saint.

The self pity ended last Sunday with my new acquisition from eBay. Some vintage Braganos with tassels and suede trim. Price: $18 inclusive of shipping. I'm still waiting for them in the mail but the picture gives you an idea of their style. No low vamp? Yes, this is a departure from my low vamp preference. What sold me were the tassels. These are the same heavy tassels as on my other Braganos.

Heavy tassels. That's the key element.

I love the sound when I walk. They bang against the leather with a reassuring sound. Klop, klop, klop. Wimpy, light tassels are useless. Go for the heavy ones.

What does LeDandy advise for those considering tassels? Try them out for yourself. Make your own decision. LeDandy believes in self empowerment. Just remember to shop responsibly.

British Spy Shows and an Interesting Observation

My social life is virtually non-existent. LeDandy prefers the comforts of home to all-night partying. With two dogs (three soon with the pug) and six or seven cats, I have a virtual zoo at home. One of my favorite forms of relaxation is watching old British spy series on dvd.

Lately I've been getting Secret Agent Man (aka Danger Man) featuring Patrick McGoohan as Agent John Drake. They were made in England during the early '60s and this series has aged well. A strong sense of realism and an emphasis on brains over brawn mark this series as different. In fact, sometimes fails in his mission! If you like spy shows, give this one a try. Much more believable than Mission Impossible when it comes to the story line.

There is another British series which isn't well known and doesn't get a lot of attention. It is called The Sandbaggers and was written by Ian Mackintosh, a former British naval intelligence officer. There were only twenty episodes made over three years from 1978-81 as Mackintosh died in 1981. This series has a unique approach. It focuses on the bureaucratic infighting of an arm of the British foreign intelligence service. Neil Burnside, the central character, is a ruthless bastard who fights more with other British departments than with the Cold War enemies. His only friend is the CIA liaison in London. Virtually no violence in this series and highly intelligent scripts.

I did make one interesting observation from The Sandbaggers. Jeff Ross, the CIA liaison, is the only the non-British character in the series. The American accent, in a sea of British talk, sounds mighty good. Nothing wrong with an American accent!

For more info on The Sandbaggers, check out The OpsRoom.

Pure Class

Here is a picture of the Duke of Windsor in a tropical outfit. But he is secondary to the main character: the pug. Yes, the pug. The adorable dog with the pushed-in face and lovable personality.

The pug has interesting historical roots. The following is taken from the Wikipedia entry on this breed. Pugs were originally bred to sit on the lap of Chinese emperors during the Shang dynasty (1766-1122 BC). They were later taken to Europe where they became the official dog of the House of Orange in the Netherlands. In 1572, a Pug saved the Prince of Orange's life by barking at an assassin. A Pug also traveled with William III and Mary II when they left the Netherlands to ascend to the throne of England in 1688.

Sounds like pugs accomplished far more than the Duke!

Many years ago I knew a fawn colored pug by the name of Herman. He was the family dog of a classmate of mine from a computer class. The classmate was a cold, odd type but I loved his dog. I even remember Herman's birthday as Dec. 12, 1988.* Poor Herman must be long gone now. He had a tremendous personality far beyond his size. The Latin phrase "multum in parvo" (much in little) is used when describing these dogs.

Why am I telling you all this stuff about pugs? LeDandy and Jon Dean will soon be getting one! Yes, we decided on the pug after much deliberation. He/she will join our two other dogs and God-knows how many cats.

When we get the pug, you can be assured that I'll post a lot of pictures.
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*LeDandy could not tell you the birthdays of his own brothers and sister!

The Rugged Rugby Shirt

It's Sunday morning and LeDandy is pooped from a long week. He's just getting over a mild cold and doesn't have the energy to write a full post today.


Following up on Thursday's article regarding the rugby shirt, here is a picture of me rasslin', unsuccessfully, with my nephew Theodore II (aka Two). Two is a loving dog and is quite fond of me. Very loving! He is a ninety pound English Bulldog and a superb rassler'. As you can see, the rugby shirt is an excellent choice for such rough play. An ordinary t-shirt would be torn to shreds in such an encounter.

LeDandy the Elite Yelper

I made a promise to myself long ago when starting this column that I wouldn't turn into one of those snobbish jerks as you'll find on the large, online clothing forums. The type that believe you have to be formally dressed and spend thousands of dollars on custom orders from obscure manufacturers to look good. Bullshit. Through my efforts, I've been able to build a superb, mostly casual, wardrobe for a mere fraction of what I used to spend on average, mall clothing. Lets be honest: not many of us have to wear a suit and tie everyday. I emphasize good taste and shrewd shopping over fancy department stores.

Given this situation, I've been averse to anything that smacks of elitism.

There is a website named Yelp which lets readers rate and write reviews of stores, restaurants and virtually anything imaginable. Its birthplace is here in the Bay Area and it is very popular. Want to go to a restaurant? Check it out on Yelp and read what others have to say. You might want to avoid it. Looking for a place to buy eyeglasses? You can find a store which people really like.

I've been writing Yelp reviews with some regularity. On Thursday I was asked to become an "elite Yelper." I get a marker next to my name and invitations to Yelp parties along with other promotions. Not really a big deal but a nice bonus for faithful reviewers.

An “elite Yelper?” That goes against my spirit. I changed my mind a minute later and accepted! So much for my principles. Must have been the free t-shirt they offered which helped convince me.*

All joking aside, Yelp is a really neat website and I encourage you to check it out. Unfortunately Yelp is confined to the US as of now. I'm sure that will change in the future.

I have a list entitled "The Definitive Shopping Guide for Men’s Dress Shoes." It summarizes many of my findings in this column.
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*Reminds me of a scene from the screwball comedy Eurotrip. A horny American teen goes to a Dutch sex club in hope of a fulfilling experience. He asks the madame of the establishment for the free t-shirt promised in the flyer. She smiles and says "Ah, you must be the American!"

A Great Rugby Shirt (and some wonderful memories)

This rugby shirt must be about seventeen years old. It is finally starting to show its age. I noticed a small tear behind the collar and fading colors as the cotton has suffered from too many trips in the dryer. This is a classic Lands' End rugby which I bought from them in about 1990. In my post of Sept. 30, 2007, I wrote about the higher quality of Lands' End rugby shirts in the old days. These rugbys were made in the U.S. and used a heavy knit cotton. At the time I paid $45 for the shirt which was a little expensive for this type of shirt back then. It was one of the best purchases I ever made.

Ever have an item of clothing that gets a lot of compliments? This was one such item. One time I was in Las Vegas and a bartender at the hotel fell in love with it (or was it me?). I gave him Lands' End's phone number but not my own. I wore it when I went to (straight) single dances in Arizona. Lets call it honestly: I wore it when I wanted to make a pick up! In typical LeDandy style, I definitely stood out in this shirt.

Seven years ago I wore this rugby when I met Jon Dean for the first time. I wrote about this meeting in my old Pen Gaaghi article. This was the last time I used the shirt for such a purpose. I guess it is a lucky shirt since we have been together afterward.

I use to wear rugby shirts quite a bit. They are quite versatile and perfect for a climate like San Francisco. A cool day? Wear a t-shirt underneath. Or if it is quite cold you can a wear a turtleneck as a base layer. They look good with blue jeans or chinos.

Then my tastes changed. I wanted something a little more dressy, like merino wool polo-style sweaters. I hardly wear my old rugbys except on the weekend.

Usually I toss out expired clothing or give it away. But I think that I'll keep my rainbow striped rugby for sentimental reasons.

A Matter of Taste, Not Money

One thing that amazes me is the outrageous price for cheap clothing. Sneakers, blue jeans and t-shirts. There is nothing wrong with these items, but these casual items should not be expensive. They are inherently cheap.

Go to any of the upscale department stores and you'll find blue jeans at $200+ and t-shirts for $80 or more. Sneakers, gym shoes? Designer sneakers at Neiman Marcus range between $200 to $1,000. The bottom line is that you can spend a small fortune and still look like an impoverished high school student.

An ensemble of designer jeans, t-shirt and sneakers can easily run you $600 at Neiman Marcus or Barneys. These places must sell a lot of this stuff as their stock is vast in this style.

Yesterday, Jon Dean and I received our order of clothes from Lands' End. Two weeks ago we found a nice selection of pants, shirts and sweaters in their overstock section and placed an order. As I've said before, the quality of their merchandise is on par with J. Press and easily surpasses L.L. Bean and J. Crew. Regular prices are very good but the overstock section is amazing.

The following is what we received for $128 (including shipping and tax): two pairs of twill pants, one cotton v-neck sweater, two cotton mock turtlenecks, one polo shirt and a sweatshirt. Not one item was over $20. I'd have no hesitation comparing the quality against J. Press or Ben Silver.

For all these items we paid the equivalent of an average pair of brand name sneakers.

I've written about the cable show "What Not to Wear" in which the subject is given $5,000 to buy new clothes. If it was my program, I'd give the contestants $500. I guarantee they would learn more from me on one-tenth the budget of the original show.

Dressing well is not a matter of money. It is a matter of taste.*
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LeDandy has superb taste!

A Bragano Tale

I haven't had a shoe post in some time. Several weeks ago I found a gorgeous pair of old black Bragano tuxedo slippers on eBay. I already have a pair of the contemporary Bragano slippers but the old ones have a lower cut and sleeker profile. This is perhaps the second time in two years that I've seen these old, yet highly desirable shoes in my size.

I didn't get them.

Man, was I pissed. I placed a bid of $69 which I thought was more than adequate. Older low vamp Braganos have sold usually sell in the $30 - $40 range. Some other guy got them for $70. That was a ridiculous price. $69, my bid, was at least sensible!

I haven't seen much lately on eBay with low vamp shoes in my size. Sometimes I'll look at the stock in other sizes just to gauge the market. I'd like to have a dollar for every time I said "..if only they were in my size." Jon Dean is tired of hearing it.

The other day I saw a pair of old Bragano crocodile loafers in a size 9 on eBay. The starting bid of $149 is a bit steep but the shoes are in great condition. I wouldn't go much over the starting price. At $225 you can get a pair of new Zelli crocodiles (full retail $700) if you know where to shop. LeDandy isn't telling.

The current crop of Bragano shoes is not worthwhile. You have to buy the old stuff. So how does one tell age with these shoes?

The label.

Shop the label with Braganos. The new blue labels on Braganos have "Crafted in Italy." Pass these up. The better ones are the older blue labels with the inscription "Made in Italy." All of my eBay Braganos are of this age group and they are excellent quality. The best, and oldest, is the elusive white label as found on these crocodiles. I'm not sure of the age but they must be old. I'll have to be patient.

Boycott Barneys!

Last week I wrote a very critical review of the new Barneys in San Francisco. I don't like their merchandise and exorbitant prices. That in itself is no reason to call for a boycott of the store. Earlier this week I found out something very interesting, and not well known, regarding Barneys which does make me call for a boycott.

An affiliate of an investment firm owned by the Dubai government purchased Barneys over the summer for $945 million.

Dubai has made the news regarding its poor human rights record. Dubai, one of the seven states of the United Arab Emirates, regards homosexuality as a criminal offense punishable by imprisonment. These are not obsolete laws on their books which are unenforced. Two years ago, eight members of Congress wrote a strongly worded letter to the UAE's ambassador in Washington condemning the country's persecution of gay men.

I'm sure Barney Pressman, the Jewish founder of the store, would turn over in his grave if he knew what happened to his company.

LeDandy calls for a boycott of Barneys, at least until the United Arab Emirates brings its laws into line with the rest of the civilized world. Please pass on any sale at Barneys New York and shop elsewhere. You'll be doing a good thing.

Fitness: A Major Component of Dandyism

LeDandy believes that physical fitness is a vital component of dandyism. I doubt that you will hear anyone else make this claim. Since dandyism is all about one's appearance, doesn't it make sense that one should have an attractive physique? It doesn't take a lot of time if done right.

LeDandy tries to work out six days a week, but will settle for five days most of the time. This routine is comprised of three aerobic workouts and three weightlifting sessions done at home. The aerobic workouts, on the elliptical trainer or stationary bike, last thirty five minutes. The key element is getting the heart rate to at least seventy percent of the maximum rate. Weightlifting sessions last between thirty and forty minutes. If I do skip a workout during the week, it is usually the weights.

Many years ago when I belonged to a gym, I'd usually spend an hour working out. A good percentage of that time was spent socializing. Now I get maximum benefit for the time spent on workouts. It doesn't take a lot of time for workouts, but they are vigorous sessions.

Earlier this week I heard an ignorant statement from "Dr. Laura" (Schlesinger) on her radio show. She said that all men eventually get a big belly. Once again, that dessicated old windbag is wrong. LeDandy will stay fit until the day he dies!

Designer Blue Jeans

Last week on my tour of Barneys in San Francisco I saw a huge display of blue jeans. What separated these jeans from those at Mervyns or The Gap was the price tag. Jeans started at about $180 and went sharply upward. We are talking denim, for God's sake. I failed to see anything which would justify a substantial increase over a normal pair of Levi jeans.

The jeans pictured above are from Acne Jeans. At Barneys, they retail between $300 to $345. There are items of clothing which I do not like, but understand how someone could buy it. Designer blue jeans are not one such item. One must have a mental defect to pay these prices. You are not paying for a special fabric or unique design. Just the label.

I wear blue jeans on the weekends and maybe one day a week at work. I don't know current prices for normal blue jeans so I checked the Levi's website. An average pair is between $40 - $50 and their "original design" is $98. I think these prices are a bit high but at least it is within reason. I saw nothing in the designer brands to justify even a two-fold increase over a normal brand.

When I was in high school back in the early 80's designer jeans came into fashion. Jordache and Calvin Klein were the big ones. I admit that as an impressionable teen I fell victim to the designer jean craze. However, the premium for these jeans was about twenty-five percent over a normal pair, not two hundred percent plus as seen today.

LeDandy advises that you stick to Levi's and save the difference. If wearing a certain designer of blue jean is important in your social circle, you need to change your environment!